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Zara White, Green, Fruity, Oriental, Black Amber

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Immagine
Prima o poi il tempo arriva per tutto. Oggi è arrivato per i profumi Zara : per la prima volta da quando frequento il negozio Zara della mia città, mi sono fermata ad esplorare il corner dei profumi . Non mi era mai passato per la mente di fermami un momento ad annusarli. Così, tanto per sapere come sono fatti. Così oggi ho deciso di colmare la lacuna.  Intanto devo dire che la presentazione lascia abbastanza a desiderare: sono tipo venti (venti!), e sono buttati negli scaffali del corner a casaccio, senza ricerca estetica o criterio. Capisco che siamo in un negozio di vestiti quindi l'attenzione debba concentrarsi su quelli, ma il risultato è così "cheap" da scoraggiare l'acquisto. Nel negozio Zara ci sono anche abiti con qualche minima pretesa: qualche taglio ben fatto, qualche tessuto o accostamento interessante; è sempre grande distribuzione, però per quel che ne capisco io, si posiziona un pelo più su rispetto ad altre catene.   Come al solito, i profumi non pre
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Arancia La Spugnatura (Francois Demachy per Acqua di Parma, 2023)

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La spugnatura è una delle più antiche tecniche di estrazione meccanica delle essenze agrumarie ; si tratta di un metodo manuale che richiede maestria e precisione, e sono pochi, ormai, gli artigiani che sono in grado di farlo.  Per spugnare (o “sfumare”) un agrume, si divide il frutto a metà . Attraverso un apposito attrezzo -una via di mezzo tra un coltello ed un cucchiaio, denominato “cavatore”- l'artigiano scodella via la polpa da ognuna delle due metà, lasciando integra la buccia . Questa viene poi piegata e pressata sopra una spugna naturale, che raccoglierà tutta l'essenza contenuta negli otricoli. Quando sarà completamente imbibita di essenza, la spugna verrà poi strizzata all'interno di un recipiente di coccio, e l'olio essenziale così ottenuto verrà lasciato decantare.  Ogni artigiano riesce a spugnare circa un quintale e mezzo di frutti al giorno, da cui si ricavano poco meno di 500 gr di essenza .  Se le essenze agrumarie si estraessero ancora in questo mo
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Perris Montecarlo new release: Vetiver Java by Gian Luca Perris (2021)

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Immagine
Vetiver is duality made plant.  The visible part is a bright green shrub whose long and thin leaves point towards the sky. The invisible part is a huge taproot embracing Mother Earth with such an exceptional vigor, difficult to overcome.  Evidently, vetiver's essence, too, expresses the same duality -and Java vetiver even better than any other type. On the one hand, you smell the freshness, the clarity of a cold winter day, the “push” upwards , to touch Heavens. On the other hand, there's the woody-green, dry, earthy, warm, smoked facet, endowed with the primitive and unconscious elegance of wild creatures. You smell the powerful roots, the effort of freeing them from Mother Earth's embrace, to clean them, to dry them, to work them... the work of man, his desire to take possession of such an intense and intimate embrace, to feel wrapped in it.  Capturing both these polarities is not easy; the composer must be able to listen deeply to the rew materials, and build a viscera
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